Guinea Pig Toys

Guinea pigs are wonderful pets but there are certain things they need in order to live a happy life. Of course they would love to have a guinea pig toy or two in their cage, but you first have to ask yourself if the cage is big enough. It is very important that they have enough space to move as well as exercise, so if the cage is just big enough for them to do those things, rather wait until you can get them a bigger cage and then buy them a guinea pig toy. If you are 100% sure that your cage is big enough, your guinea pig would love to have a toy to play with!

Here are a few ideas if you are interested in buying a guinea pig toy;

Wood chews are a great guinea pig toy as these animals love to chew on wood, at least when they chew on this they will not be in trouble! They will find these wood chews amusing so they will play with it first and then eat on it, so it’s a toy and treat in one! Other chews are Super Pet Bark Bites, Branch Bites, Block Bites, Jungle Talk, and many more. These chews are available in many different bright colors and are not harmful to your guinea pig.

A little more on the healthy side of a guinea pig toy is the Vegetable and Mineral chews. These are safe for them to nibble on and they are fun to play with. They are all made from natural vegetable cores and are available in Crispy Crops, Corn and Celery, Critter Cone, Salt Savors and many more. The Lava Bites will not only provide the little one with fun and games but it will also help to sharpen their teeth.

To give your guinea pig a guinea pig toy will be great, but what is even better is giving getting them a treat holder. This holder will ensure that all his treats and toys are easy to reach and that they remain clean. This is important as it is not possible for the owner to be there at all times, therefore the animal can get their guinea pig toy on their own, without any help. This can be put in the cage as it is easy for the guinea pig to get to.

It is a good thing that a guinea pig likes to chew because their teeth are constantly growing and by chewing they will prevent their teeth from becoming too big. This is also where a guinea pig toy is useful as they will chew on that too. The guinea pig toy is also good for the animal because it will help to keep them fit. It is important for them to be fit as they like to exercise and this is why they need a cage that is big enough for them to do so.

More ideas of a guinea pig toy is crumpled paper, wood blocks, willow rabbit toys, fleece tunnels, balls, cardboard boxes, hard plastic toys and paper bags seem to make good hiding places for them when they are tired. When purchasing a guinea pig toy make sure that is consists of no small parts that can come off as there might be serious problems if your guinea pig swallows something unusual.

Another great guinea pig toy is a wooden tunnel, some would say that this isn’t really a toy, but your guinea pig will definitely love it! These animals like to “hide” when they get tired of playing so tunnels and “hidey’s” are great for them. If you have more than one guinea pig, it is important that you have a tunnel for each of them plus an extra one. When they have had enough time to experience the tunnels, you can get more creative by adding towel tents and other fun toys for them to enjoy. With all the toys and other accessories, it is important to have fresh hay in the cage and because of all the items in the cage, the guinea pig needs quite a big cage for all their toys and activities but they also need space to run around.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig Food

Vitamin C is not naturally produced in guinea pigs, thus they should to be given it day after day to guarantee first-class health. The lack of vitamin C causes scurvy. Every guinea pig has to be given 10mgs of vitamin C on a daily basis to 1kg body weight. A vitamin C supplement can be found in pet stores and supermarkets that sell food. A guinea pig cannot only on this source of supplement. Vitamin C can also be added to 1qt of water, freshly made every 12 or so hours, alternatively a handful of kale or cabbage can be given, even a quarter orange.

Oxbow cavy cuisine, which is a timothy hay-layered pellet food, a guinea pig in adult stage will enjoy this food and it will promote good health. Should your guinea pig be a little under 10 months old, the recommended diet for this age group will be alfalfa hay- layered pellet based food. A guinea pig that is mothers-to-be and is nursing requires a higher protein and calcium consumption, which is where Cavy Performance plays its roll. Certain guinea pig chow contains artificial colors which have a bad influence on your guinea pig and makes them hard to please should they eat this kind of food. Guinea pig mixed feeds also consist of nuts and seeds; these are high in fat and are not healthy for guinea pigs.

It is recommended to always serve food in a heavy ceramic bowl, as to prevent it from been tipped over while eating. The sides of the bowls should be high enough to hold back the bedding and fecal pellets. Washing the bowl after every meal is strongly advised and you also have to make sure that the bowl is well dried before adding fresh food. A guinea pig however is more concerned about what contents are in the bowl more than the cleanliness. Water should be made easily available and free from contamination; you may do this by supplying more than one bottle of water which should be equipped with “sipper” tubes. Water bottles tend to become contaminated and clogged as the guinea pig chews on the end of the sipper tube and backwashing food particles up the tube.

Should you notice that your guinea pig is picking up a bit of weight, this could be the result of eating too many pellets, either out of boredom or they are lacking in exercise. Preferably decrease the amount of food, a guinea pig can fill up on hay and their daily vegetables, these foods are not fattening rather very healthy. Weighing your guinea pig on a daily basis and keeping a record of the weight of your guinea pig. Should you be concerned about your pigs’ weight, either a decrease or an increase in excessive amounts, veterinary advice is recommended.

When purchasing food, guinea pig recommended quantity is 2 x 4kg for a few weeks for the average amount of 5 guinea pigs.

A gradual change has to be made when introducing food; a guinea pig can be at risk to sudden changes in its diet, when first been introduced to a more solid foodstuff this in turn may make their tummies upset. Failure to introduce food at a gradual level usually results in refusal of water and food; this may lead to a disease. Towards new food; a guinea pig in general is a creature of habit and does not handle change to scent, surface, flavor, arrangement or appearance very well.

Even if you should store pellets in a cool, dry place, about half of the vitamin C content is ruined and lost probably within 6 weeks after purchasing.

Recommended food, as a guinea pig requires a lot of vitamin C can be found in;

Recommended Food     Calcium per ratio
Watercress                2:1
Turnip Greens           4.5:1
Swiss Chard             1.1:1
Squash                    1:1
Spinach                   2:1
Mustard Spinach         7.5:1
Kale                    2.4:1
Dill Weed               3.2:1
Dandelion Greens        2.8:1
Loose Lettuce           2.7:1
Lambs quarters          4.3:1
Cabbage                   2:1
Beet Greens               3:1
Chinese Cabbage         2.8:1
Cilantro                1.4:1
Collards               14.5:1
Chicory Greens          2.1:1

Guinea pigs are high maintenance pets and needs to be cared for very carefully.
A dose of vitamin C should not be disregarded and be taken with high regard. It
has to be remembered that guinea pigs take time to adjust and lots of patience is required.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Feeding Guinea Pig

Guinea pigs are lovely pets to have, sometimes they don’t look too handsome, or they are too handsome and you just have to get one, but they are generally good pets. This is why it is important that you provide your guinea pig with a healthy diet. Feeding a guinea pig may seem like the easiest duty, but it has to be done correctly or the animal could get ill.

The first important aspect of their diet when feeding a guinea pig the correct food is Vitamin C. Vitamin C is very important to a guinea pig; this is because they cannot produce their own vitamin C like humans can. If you do not feed your guinea pig enough vitamin C foods, they are at a high risk of becoming ill with a decease known as scurvy. The correct amount of Vitamin C to use when feeding a guinea pig normally depends on the breed, size and weight of the animal, but approximately 10-30mg a day will be fine. Although, if your guinea pig is ill, young, pregnant or nursing, they will need more vitamin C in their daily diet.

Many of the guinea pig pellets that are available on the market today are added with vitamin C, but because vitamin C is unbalanced, the goodness will decrease if the pellets are kept for too long. The pellets are also available with a stabilized type of vitamin C, and if you keep the pellets in a cool and dry area in the house, it would help to preserve the goodness.

When you are feeding a guinea pig, giving them different nutritious vegetables that are high in vitamin C along with the pellets, will definitely keep them healthy. The best way to increase with extra vitamin C is by using vitamin C tablets. These are available especially for guinea pigs, or if you cannot get those you can get the normal vitamin C tablets for humans. When buying the human tablets make sure that they are chewable and are only vitamin C enriched with no added vitamins. For adult guinea pigs, a quarter of the 100mg tablet is required when feeding a guinea pig.

Another way to add the vitamin C when feeding a guinea pig is by putting it in their water. The method might seem a lot easier, but it is not that effective and has a lot of disadvantages. The vitamin C tends to loose its effectiveness when diluted. Another problem is that you cannot force them to drink it quickly enough and by the time they decide they are thirsty, the vitamin C is basically dissolved. They also might refuse to drink it because of the taste, and that will lead to other complications such as dehydration which can be severe. This is another way it can be done, but the other methods are way more effective as you will be able to tell if the animal is getting enough vitamin C when you feed it the vegetables or the tablets.

When feeding a guinea pig, remember that they should be given pellets daily. Guinea pigs, unlike many other animals, know when they have had enough food and they will not overeat. Only if your guinea pig is noticeably overweight would you have to restrict them to 1/8 cup of pellets a day, no more than that! Only give them pellets that are made for guinea pigs, when feeding a guinea pig, never give them cat, dog or any other animal pellets. The pellets should be bought in small quantities to ensure that it will all be used before the best before date. Also, try and purchase the pellets that contain a stabilized form of vitamin C. For a young guinea pig, alfalfa based pellets will do, and for an adult guinea pig, a timothy hay based pellet will be healthier. When feeding a guinea pig of any age, it is important that you avoid pellets that contain seeds, dried fruits, nuts, beet pulp, corn, and any other filler. Also, do not give them anything with high sugar content. Another thing you should remember about feeding a guinea pig is that they should also have hay in their diets. Separate from their food bowl, should be a stack of fresh hay. The hay needs to be fresh at all times therefore a new stack is required everyday.

Feeding a guinea pig is usually a difficult job as they require so much attention and can only eat certain things.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".


Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig Disease

Malocclusion of the Premolar Teeth or Slobbers is a common disease. Guinea pig – that is over the age of 3 years – contracts this disease when the upper premolar and the lower premolar teeth meet inappropriately while it chews. As time goes by, the problem results in the teeth wearing abnormally from the disease. Guinea pig then sustains entrapment and also injury to its tongue and this becomes continuous. The animal tries it utmost to eat and is unfortunate when chewing and swallowing its food. Drooling is the result of the disease. Guinea pig weight loss becomes dramatic. When one suspects this condition in their pet, a veterinarian has to be consulted immediately. The Guinea pig’s mouth will be examined and this will confirm a diagnosis. To correct this problem it will involve anesthesia and trimming or/and filing of the teeth. The procedure is difficult because of the small mouth of the guinea pig. Before and after the procedure, the guinea pig will have to be force fed and antibiotics are necessary. Unfortunately, a permanent solution cannot be found to solve this problem, but periodic filing and trimming is necessary.

The Scorbutis and Scurvy - lack of vitamin C - Disease. Guinea Pig cannot produce its own vitamin C and because of this an adequate amount must be supplied apart from food servings. A lack of vitamin C results in scurvy, and this is characterized when the ribs and joints pain, the development of the teeth and bone is poor, unwilling to move, and bleeding from the gums. Vitamin C is included in formulated diets to prevent this disease. Guinea pig being exposed to dampness, heat and light will result in the reduction of vitamin C in their blood. Even though your guinea pig is fed reliable diets, it could still lead to scurvy, because the content of vitamin C is either lost or is reduced. You should contact a veterinarian once this disease is suspected so that a vitamin C program can be prescribed and the disease cured.

Thinning of the hair or hair loss is known to be a common disease guinea pig of the female sex contract. During each pregnancy these sexes lose their hair and it is frequently seen among the juveniles. Another result of hair loss is caused by barbering, and this “bad habit” starts when they chew the coats of those guinea pigs whose social order is lower. As a result, younger guinea pigs can lose great amounts of hair. Another reason for hair loss can also be caused by another disease. Guinea pig can contract parasite infestation and also fungal disease.

Heat Stroke or Heat Stress is another disease guinea pig is susceptible to. This is contractible especially to those guinea pigs that are heavily furred or/and overweight. Temperatures that exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity anywhere above 70%, not enough ventilation and shade, stress and over crowding are additional factors. The signs of heat stroke before death include weakness, panting, refuse to move around, slobbering convulsions and delirium. Heat stroke in guinea pigs can be treatable, if the sign are recognized very early. Guinea pigs that are heat-stressed should be bathed or sprayed with cool water. Once this is achieved, a veterinarian is to be immediately contacted. Provide enough shade for guinea pigs if you house them outdoors and provide enough ventilation if your guinea pig is housed indoors. Having a device spraying a continuous mist of water within the guinea pig’s enclosure will help lower the air temperature.

Cancer is a very rare problem in guinea pigs. However, it is likely to be contracted by the elders. The tumors that involve respiratory lining and the skin are benign. The mammary glands, reproductive tract and the blood may also be affected by cancer.

Cervical Lymphadentis or Lumps is a disease guinea pig contract beneath the lower jaw and the upper neck. This is usually the cause when foods such as hay hurt the lining of the mouth or when the skin over the Lymphadentis nodes is penetrated by shallow wounds. A veterinarian can determine the culture of the pus with antibiotic testing and then determine which antibiotic will be suitable for the injection to cure the disease a guinea pig is vulnerable to.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".


Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Caring For Guinea Pig

Guinea pigs as pets in modern society originally descend from the wild guinea pig of South America. Guinea pigs are classified by many as easy-going pets for children. Many parents around the world select the guinea pig if it is going to be the first pet for their children. Parents have the tendency of believing that having a small pet only requires a little care and attention. However, it is important that people realize that these creatures have not just one requirement, and caring for guinea pig is an ultimate job. This includes a cage that is roomy, their cages need a daily clean, they need to be put on special diets, they need to be handled gently, and last but not least – the adult of the house should be the one that tends to the needs and wants of these little pets.

The first step when caring for guinea pig is that they need lots of space to move. Make sure that the living space is around 18 inches, wall-to-wall, and a height of 14 inches and a depth of 25 inches. When housing these creatures in large cages the chances of these pets becoming more active are great. Forget the thought of aquariums. These provide very poor ventilation for the guinea pig. Also, stay away from wire flooring, because guinea pigs have tender feet and these kinds of flooring will hurt them. When going out and deciding on linings for the floors and also furniture for the cages, remember that guinea pigs chew on anything around them. Their teeth grow constantly and they do this to wear them down. Selecting the right flooring and furniture (as long as everything is nontoxic) is taking the right step to caring for guinea pig. Keep in mind that you should make use of plenty of material. Nesting materials are available a pet shops. Guinea pigs use these materials as a bathroom and also as bedding.

Hay should be provided and this should be of the best quality when caring for guinea pig. Rodents use this hay for snacking and nesting. Refrain from using cedar chips, sawdust and other materials that could lead to respiratory or/and other health problems. Last but not least, you should provide your new pet with a log; as long as the gnawing log is untreated it should be fine. Add in tunnels for them to crawl through, and also platforms for them to climb. Make sure the food bowl that you are supplying is gnawing and tipping resistant. Supply a bottle with water they can sip from. This is a great and the right way for caring for guinea pig.

You have to be extra careful the way you handle a guinea pig, because they are very easily stressed. To pick them up, you have to place one of your hands under its chest area, just behind its front legs. With the other hand, use it to cup his hindquarters. Now that you have a firm but very gentle grip on your friend, lift it. Immediately, pull it to your lap or to your chest. This will make it feel safe and it will also prevent it from thrashing around. This is the proper way of caring for guinea pig.

Your new friend must be fed a commercial food for guinea pigs. This is a food that has been formulated for this species. Guinea pigs are herbivores, so they need lots of vitamin C, and vegetables like cabbage and kale should do the trick. Certain vitamin supplements for the guinea pig should be taken up with the veterinarian. They will provide exactly what is needed for caring for guinea pig.
Guinea pigs do their part when trying to keep clean. They are always grooming themselves with their tongue, front teeth and their back claws. However, caring for guinea pig and its cage is your job. Scrub and then disinfect the cage, then let the cage dry before lying down a floor of fresh bedding. Make sure the water bottle is changed and cleaned daily.

As you can see, caring for guinea pig is a job, but a pleasure indeed. Those that have the time should consider getting one, but those that will not have the time caring for guinea pig should rather not.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".


Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Cage Type For Guinea Pigs

Selecting the correct cage type for a guinea pig is important as this is where they will spend their time and it is important that your guinea pig is happy in order for them to be healthy. Guinea pigs are social animals so they are better off with two or three other of their kind, but most of the cages are not big enough to be home to more than one pig. Many owners will say that the old guideline of having a 2 squared feet space per guinea pig is outdated and should no longer be followed. Nowadays, the correct cage type for a guinea pig is 7.5 square feet for one and 10.5 squared feet for twp guinea pigs. If you are able to provide the animals with a larger space they will be happier and benefit more from the slight freedom. In most cases, purchasing the cage type for a guinea pig can be expensive and sometimes it is not big enough, where as a home-made cage will be less expensive to make and you can make it the size you think your guinea pig needs.

A cage type for a guinea pig that has wire floors or ramps should be avoided, but besides that, they normally are not too fussy about what they live in. the cage type for a guinea pig that has ledges of low plastic shelves provide some interest for them instead of having just a normal boring cage. When doing so, be sure to leave them enough ground space for running laps, do not put the shelves on the floor or too low off the floor so it can interfere with their exercise. For adult guinea pigs, the spacing between the bars of the cage should be about one inch. The great thing about having guinea pigs is that they are rather big and not very much into climbing and jumping. The most they are likely to jump is approximately 18 inches.

There are many ideas one can choose from when deciding on the correct cage type for a guinea pig. There are even kits that allow you to make your own cage in less than thirty minutes! The kit will include everything you need to make the cage and you can choose the size as well as the color. The sizes are normally, Extra Large (2x5 grids – 27”x71” 14 grids and 28 connectors), Large (2x5 grids – 27”x56” 12 grids and 24 connectors), and Medium (2x3.5 grids – 27”x50” 12 grids and 20 connectors, Small (2 x 3 grids – 27”x41” 10 grids and 20 connectors) and Extra Small (2x2.5 grids – 24”x37” ten grids and eight components. You can choose the color of the cage type for a guinea pig, the color of the coroplast can be green, light blue, navy blue, silver, grey, red, yellow or black. The color of the grid can be either black or white. You can be very creative when creating your own cage type for a guinea pig and it is guaranteed to save you some money.

If the cage type for a guinea pig that you chose does not have all that much space for your animal to exercise and you think they could do with more, a portable wire pen is what you need. They would like to be outside when the weather is not miserable and there is some sun shining, place a pen on the lawn and allow them some space until it gets cooler outside than take them back to their usual spot. Keep in mind that you should not have any fertilizer or pesticides on the grass when you let the guinea pig outside. Also remember that while they are outside they should have access to water and shade at all times. This is important as they like to exercise but get tired quickly because of their size and then like to drink lots of water.

The cage type for a guinea pig doesn’t really have to be all that specific, as long as they have space to exercise or you have a second cage that they can be put in and taken outside at a certain time everyday. They will be happy with this and more importantly, they will be physically healthy.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Buying Guide For Guinea Pigs

Guinea pigs are great pets to have, but they do require a lot from their owner. They need to have all the appropriate goodies in their large cage; they need a special diet, lots of attention and loads more. So if you are interested in getting yourself a guinea pig, make sure you are going to have the time to care for it the correct way. They are very clean animals, they hardly bite and they are relatively calm. Their lifespan on average is 5-7 years but they are known to sometimes live till 10 or more years. It also doesn’t cost all that much money, if you follow this buying guide for guinea pig, it should come to a lot less than you expected! But before you just go out and buy a guinea pig, there are a few things you should know;

There are many different places you could go to pick out your guinea pig, but firstly, go to someone that breeds them if you are interested in a certain breed of guinea pig or if you want a guinea pig with a pedigree. If you are not looking for a certain breed, you can visit your local pet store or animal shelter. As any buying guide for guinea pig would tell you, these are not easy pets to have! You have to be 100% sure that you want a guinea pig; these animals can not be neglected! Before you get the guinea pig, you have to make sure you have everything they will need to get them settled down quickly. First things first, Here are the bare necessities;

A Cage – this is very important, your guinea pig needs a cage big enough for them to
Move freely. They need all the space they can get. It is also advised that you
Do not purchase a cage that has a wire bottom as this may injure their feet.

The Bedding – there are many different things one could use as bedding for a guinea pig, but in this buying guide for guinea pig, the best solutions are:

Chopped cardboard – tear up a small cardboard box but be sure to not tear hard pieces that could injure the piggie. It doesn’t make any dust either. Don’t make the pieces too small, just roughly 3cm.
Finacard – this is almost the same as Ecobed, except it is shredded instead of chopped and the guinea pigs seem to love it. The only problem is it doesn’t seem to stay clean as long as the others do; it’s also very allergy-safe.
Carefresh – according to other guinea pig owners, this is the best form of bedding to use. It is absorbent and it doesn’t smell easily.
Megazorb – this product is similar to Carefresh, just cheaper. It might not deliver the exact results, but it’s the closest you’ll get to Carefresh. It absorbs well, easy to clean and keeps the smell well hidden.
Shredded paper – this is the cheaper solution if you are on a budget. It is soft paper, its flakes so the guinea pig won’t get tangled in it and it is not dusty.

Plenty of Food – in this buying guide for guinea pig, food is extremely important! Guinea pigs mostly eat pellets but some other foods like vegetables, fresh greens and vitamin C are good for them.

Chew Toy – this is also a rather important part of a buying guide for guinea pig. When you purchase one of these for your pet, make sure it is wooden and has no small parts that can come off, preferably just a plain wooden block. This is important as it gives the guinea pig something to do and it also file’s their teeth. Their teeth grow their entire lives, so it is important that they file them down by chewing, or they might get too big for the little one’s mouth.

A Covered Sleeping Box – as long as this is a box with a top, its fine. Also, there must be an opening for the animal to move in and out freely.

A Water Bottle – with a soft teat for them to drink from. Make sure they have water at all times.

Now, the final steps of the buying guide for guinea pig; choose the guinea pig that looks healthy, playful and activate. Watch out for ones that are coughing, sneezing or have discharge around their eyes, nose or ears.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Breeding Guinea Pigs

Breeding guinea pig is very rewarding. First of all, mating them is easy. Rearing them is easy and at the end of the day you will be happy as you watch these little creatures grow and develop. Just make sure that you will be able to provide good homes for the babies. The male guinea pig is called a boar and the female is called a sow and the sow can start breeding at the age of just five weeks. However, although this is possible it is still too young for the sow. It is recommended that the sow weighs around 400gm, and this equivalent to the sow being 3 months old.

Breeding guinea pig, the male should be at around 3 or 4 months of age before you allow them to mate. The cycle of the sow’s oestrus cycle (heat) lasts around 16 days. During this time, the sow will be interested in communicating with the boar for around eight hours. Breeding guinea pig can occur anywhere during these eight hours. The sows and the boar-beaus get on really well, so the only and easiest way to get the romance in the air is to keep the two together until you are positive that the sow is pregnant.

It will probably be easy for you to tell when the sow has reached her season. In the time of season the female guinea pig’s spine will curve and this will help her rear end elevate. You will find in the breeding guinea pig stages that the pregnant sow mounts other sows that are accompanying her. If you have more than one sow, a very happy boar can service up to 10 female guinea pigs.

Keep in mind that during breeding guinea pig stages the female guinea pig has to take her time in order to produce her little ones. This will take between nine and ten weeks before the wait is over and the reward to you will be babies. A sow is able to produce anywhere from a single to six young. However, three or four is what the average amount is. If there is going to be a larger litter, the length of pregnancy will be shorter.

After the breeding guinea pig stage has ended, you will notice during the female guinea pig’s pregnancy she will develop a bulbous shape, and her weight will be doubled. It will be recommended that the water quantities are increased because the “soon to be mother” will be consuming more water than usual.

For you to tell when the female guinea pig will deliver her babies will be hard. The reason for this is that the length of pregnancy is long and also because female guinea pigs don’t go around building nests. However, after the time of the breeding guinea pig and now close to the delivering stages you will notice the pelvis widening. This will occur in the last week before the sow gives birth. The separation of the pelvis increases in the last few hours before birth to more than 2.5 centimeters.

The delivery is usually uncomplicated and this usually takes anywhere around an hour. There is usually a 5 minute gap between each piglet entering the real world. Sad to know is that stillbirths and abortions are very common throughout the lives of guinea pigs.

The diet of the pregnant guinea pig after the breeding guinea pig period is very important. It is very important that the female guinea pig consumes more than the normal dose of Vitamin C. Guinea pigs can contract scurvy just like humans, and because of that they have to receive their dose of vitamin C. Guinea pigs can’t produce vitamin C, and during the breeding guinea pig stages, the female will require at least three times more vitamin C that she would normally receive.

Vitamin C can be added to the drinking water at a solution of 200mg of vitamin C to every liter of water. However, in water vitamin C dissolves quickly and supplementing the pregnant sow with foods enriched with vitamin C will solve that problem.

Breeding guinea pig can be a pleasure, but what is asked of you can be a real challenge. Rest assured that what you will experience will be the most beautiful thing on earth.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".


Copyright 2007, All Rights Reserved

Bedding Guinea Pig

The place where one sleeps has to be comfortable, whether it is a human or an animal, uncomfortable sleeping space means interrupted sleep, which is not good for anyone’s lifestyle. The most important is the bedding. Guinea pigs also have to have comfortable bedding to sleep on and there is so much to choose from, you just have to monitor and see what your pet likes most. A few of the popular types of bedding guinea pig includes;

VetBed
This is made from uniquely urbanized, long lasting polyester that will not carry any germs or bacterial growth. It is sterile, non-irritant; dirt defiant, soft, comfortable, 100% safe, won’t cause allergies and it can be washed in the machine. Any liquid will fall through the VetBed and leave the top of the bedding dry. This type of bedding requires dusting and washing every 2-3 days.

100% Hemp
This is made from hemp and although it is not the cheapest bedding, guinea pig will love it! It is not as absorbent as many other bedding types, but it will do. It is also very low on odor but it is slightly dusty and needs to be cleaned every 2 days. It is also somewhat rough on the feet.

Litter
This isn’t the greatest bedding for a guinea pig as it is hard on their feet and it gives off phenols but it is good to put under other bedding as it absorbs urine very well.

Shavings
This is the most common form of bedding. Guinea pigs sometimes have allergic reactions to them, but that all depends on the pet. So you will have to try it out to determine if it is good for your guinea or not. This is also very cost effective but rather dusty.

Shredded Paper
This is flaked paper used as bedding. Guinea pig will love this as it is soft, extremely comfortable; completely dust free and they won’t get jumbled up in it as it is flakes. It is also not harmful and they will not get injured by it.

Chopped Cardboard
Many companies make chopped cardboard especially for the bedding of a guinea pig. This is very low on dust which makes it great if you have a dust allergy. It is best when put on top of the newspaper in the cage. It is gentle on the feet, so no need to worry about that. It is also very absorbent and the liquid goes straight to the newspaper at the bottom of the cage, avoiding sogginess. They will also not get sore noses from tearing and playing with the cardboard like many other bedding types do. It is also not too expensive if bought in bulk.

Russell Rabbit
This is chopped straw that is great for bedding. Guinea pigs enjoy this as it is soft and will not cause them any find of injuries. The only disadvantage of using this bedding is that it doesn’t absorb liquid very well and it needs to be changed quite often, but that is not a problem s it is also one of the cheapest bedding solutions for guinea pigs and is also one of the most commonly used for bedding. A guinea pig needs something that is not going to be difficult to walk on, or hurt their noses when they play with it.

Megazorb
This is a fairly cheap form of bedding and it works wonderfully for guinea pigs as it is comfortable for them, its low on dust, absorbs the smell of urine and it is easy to clean as well as pleasant to handle – in other words you wont have to put a peg on you’re nose when it’s time to clean the cage! The only negative of this bedding is when you but it, it has to be in bulk so you will have to have a place to store it until it is all used.

There are many different kinds of bedding, but a guinea pig will only be satisfied with something specific, you’ll have to try them out if you don’t already know what they like and what they don’t like. Also make sure that you keep the bedding clean, different bedding has different cleaning instructions, so be sure to to follow them accordingly.


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Bathing Guinea Pigs

Normally, guinea pigs are clean, and if you do not clean their cages regularly, they will possess that aroma that is lovely and familiar. What would help is bathing your pet and keeping their skin and hair healthy. Some people bath their guinea pigs every 3 or sometimes 4 months. This will be the recommended time bathing guinea pig, unless the furry friends are undergoing a skin condition treatment for lice or they have just become very messy for some weird reason. Keep in mind that bathing guinea pig frequently can lead to dry skin and also cause skin irritation.

For the preparation you will need a few things, and these are:

• 3 towels


• Medium size bowl


• Flannel plastic jug


• Animal shampoo


• Soft brush


• Swarfega (used for the grease gland on Guinea Pig Boars)
  Swarfega is a brand of heavy-duty hand cleaner. It is a dark green gelatinous substance, used to clean grease, oil or general persistent, dirt from the skin. As with other such cleaners, it is drastically more effective than soap or other common cleansing products at removing such dirt.
  

If it is cold, make sure that it is quite warm in the room so the guinea pig doesn’t get cold.

Before bathing guinea pig, add water to the plastic bowl. Make this about two inches deep and check the temperature of the water with your elbow and make sure that the water is not too warm or too cold before bathing guinea pig. A few people use the counter top in the kitchen and fill the sink with water and use that when they have to rinse down the guinea pig. Place the flannel in the bowl and this should help the guinea pig not slip around but feel rather secure while you start bathing guinea pig. It is advisable that you have everything that you will need within arm’s reach. Don’t leave a guinea pig unattended for one second.

When applying water before bathing guinea pig, use a plastic container with a spout. The one that came with your steam iron should work out perfectly. If you need to change the water in the basin make sure that you have a responsible person keeping their eyes on the guinea pig or their hands near its body while you turn away for a few seconds. Whatever you do, do not leave you pet unattended, especially on high surfaces.

There are different kinds of shampoo you could use when bathing guinea pig and you probably will hear about new products that prevent parasitic and fungal infestations. However, if you have to treat your little friend for any condition, you need an ordinary shampoo to penetrate the dirt and grease first before using the new shampoo to treat the infestations and other conditions.

Bathing guinea pig boars, you have to pay more attention to the grease gland and this is located near the tail area. Boars are the ones that usually have a grease gland, but a few sows have them too. It feels almost like a sticky coin. Adding a little Swarfega to the grease gland before bathing guinea pig boar will do the trick removing the grease. Allow the Swarfega to stay on the gland for a few minutes before rinsing it off. Mechanics use the product to clean their hands. The same product is ideal for cleaning the grease gland on boars.

If your guinea pig is suffering from mange mites, you need to visit the veterinarian immediately. In this case, a treatment of Ivomectin is given. A guinea pig having mange mites can cause severe pain and can also cause sores, and this is the result of intense biting and itching. Any fungal shampoo or parasite shampoo will not be successful when trying to rid the mites. You can ask the veterinarian to give the Ivomectin orally to the little friend, and this will save it from going through injections that could be painful. This is a rare condition, but the truth is that wherever you find guinea pigs you will find mange mites. If you have a litter of guinea pigs and only one of them is infected by the infestation it is best to treat all of them.

There are things to look out for before bathing guinea pig, and precautions should be taken when the little friend contracts a parasitic and fungal infestation. As time goes by, you will become used to tending to the needs and wants of these little furry creatures.

If you like this article, then might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs"

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