Guinea Pigs - Facts to Know Before Buying or Adopting One By Florian Ross

Regardless of where you choose to purchase your guinea pig, the price will be relatively the same. Most pet stores charge between $10 and $15 for a guinea pig while breeders and rescue organizations charge around $20 to $30. Some breeders may charge more for certain breeds than others.

Before you take home a guinea pig from a breeder, a pet store, or a rescue organization, you need to do the following things:

Ask how old the guinea pig isA guinea pig should never be taken from its mother earlier than four weeks, and some breeders recommend waiting until at least six weeks. If the individual does not know, then you shouldn't buy that guinea pig.

Ask what sex it is
Even if you plan on sexing the guinea pig yourself, you should ask the person selling it to you to specify its gender. Don't let them tell you that the animal's too young to be properly sexed since that's never the case.

Ask if the males and females have been kept separated
Some pet stores already do this, but since many of their employees are not able to tell one guinea pig's gender from the next, it may not always be reliable.

Check the guinea pig's health
As you are choosing your guinea pig, you should look for the following things since they signal an unhealthy animal:

- Unless the guinea pig is alone, it should not be sitting by itself in a corner. These are lively, social creatures that enjoy contact with one another and people.


- Check the guinea pig's skin for bald patches and its eyes and nose for discharge. These are signals of health problems.


- Look at the droppings in the cage (you don't have to get too close) and be sure that you don't see evidence of diarrhea.


- Check female guinea pigs for signs of pregnancy. If they are very large near their rumps, then it is very likely they are pregnant.

Remember that the health of the guinea pig is especially important if you are bringing it into a home that already contains guinea pigs since many diseases and conditions can be passed between the two animals. Also, nothing is sadder than losing a new pet not long after bringing him or her home.

If you like this article, then might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

The Average Guinea Pig's Life Expectancy By Simon Wilson

A guinea pig makes a fabulous pet for many reasons however one of the most imperative reasons is the flexibility to keep your pet outdoors or indoors. Many people are under a common misconception that guinea pigs are much too smelly to be kept indoors and this is just that; a misconception. This will be touched upon more in depth later on however another great reason for these animals is that the guinea pigs life expectancy is quite long and versatile. Lets take a closer look at the average guinea pigs life expectancy as well as other favorable traits about this marvelous creature.

Reviewing Guinea Pigs Life Expectancy

Most people when beginning to do research on a specific pet that they wish to acquire begin by asking how long it is expected to live and this is no different with the guinea pigs. In a typical situation, the guinea pigs life expectancy can be expected to last about five years although many guinea pigs have been recorded to live up to as old as seven! The age of four for a guinea pig is also considered to be quite old and it isn’t unheard of for a guinea pig to only live four years so the typical expectation you should have for your guinea pigs life expectancy is generally four to seven years old.

Sometimes this is a huge downfall with potential owners because they want the pet to live much longer than a mere four years. Inquiring about the guinea pigs life expectancy is sometimes the biggest downfall for the guinea pig getting a new home because some parents and individual owners feel the potential sadness of losing a pet. This is terribly unfortunate because the guinea pig is an excellent pet that not only requires but also loves human interaction. They are very social creatures and have a very gentle disposition and typically will crave affection from the owner.

The last issue to address when speaking of the guinea pigs life expectancy is that despite the fact that it may be short, these creatures make wonderful pets due to the fact that they have a seriously low biting tendency which makes them a great and safe pet to have with children as well as the elderly. Guinea pigs are very easy to feed daily and hold very low cost for food and supplies, which makes it a great pet also despite the low guinea pig life expectancy.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".


If you want to learn more about Georgia Guinea Pigs please visit our site which is free to the public. You'll find the best tips on everything to do with Guinea Pigs

Guinea Pigs Training Guide - The Basics By Florian Ross

Many people would be quick to call a guinea pig just another "dumb animal" but that's actually not true. Of course, when compared to a human or a dog, guinea pigs aren't going to astound you with their intellect, but they are much more intelligent than the average person gives them credit for, as any guinea pig owner knows quite well.

For example, if you feed your guinea pig fresh vegetables right out of the refrigerator, it won't take long for him to equate the sound of the refrigerator opening and him getting a tasty treat. His squeals and whistles will tell you that he wants what you've got in there.

Obviously, guinea pigs are trainable. They can be taught to walk on a leash (these are available at most pet stores) or to go to the bathroom in a certain area. Some have even learned to come when their owners call their name! Just like with any other animal, you must be willing to work consistently with your pet and to reward the desired behavior with treats, usually a favorite food. The guinea pig will then make the mental connection between the good feeling he gets from the reward and the behavior you want from him.

If you do plan on having your guinea pig on the floor a lot, then it may be a good idea to start litter training them early. You don't want to set your expectations too high for this endeavor, however. Guinea pigs will still go to the bathroom throughout their cage and will occasionally have accidents on the floor, but litter training them considerably reduces the liklihood that this will happen.

The easiest way to do this is to set aside part of their cage as a bathroom. A small litter pan (available at most pet stores) can be placed in one of the corners of the cage. In order to entice your guinea pig to use it as a bathroom, you should add in some of their waste to the litter when you clean out the cage. You should keep doing this each time you change the bedding in the cage.

When you let your guinea pig out on the floor, you should also place their litter pan on the ground with them. Most of the time they will use the pan to go to the bathroom. Even if your guinea pig does have an accident, it will most likely be poop, not urine, you'll have to clean up and that is much, much easier to take care of.

You can also train your guinea pig to walk on a leash in a similar way. First, you must get him or her used to wearing the leash. Put it on them while you are petting them or hand-feeding them fresh vegetables so that they'll connect the enjoyable activity with having the leash on. Once your guinea pig feels comfortable with the leash, you can begin walking with him. Start off with small distances in the house, then gradually move outside. Just be careful not to pull or yank on the leash too hard, since guinea pigs are more fragile than dogs.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".


Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

Cleaning Baby Guinea Pigs By Nathan Dormello

If you have recently acquired a baby guinea pig and are wondering how to clean baby guinea pigs, you definitely aren’t alone. Chances are you even feel a bit uneasy about giving your baby guinea pig a bath in the sink or tub because it is so huge and the little animal is so small. You might even have a sneaking suspicion that when learning how to clean baby guinea pigs that the traditional form of bathing is not very well recommended for the little creatures.

Cleaning Options

It is a great thing that you are trying to learn how to clean baby guinea pigs because it really doesn’t even have to be as difficult as bathing a dog or a cat for example. It is so much easier and less messy than that method and the guinea pigs are quite happy for it too as not many enjoy the water. In learning how to clean baby guinea pigs there are a couple of different choices you have when trying to decide how to properly clean your pet guinea pig. Lets take a look at the options available to you and where to acquire them in your local neighborhood.

The first wonderful product that has in recent years hit the pet store shelves for small animals as a bath alternative and is a great tool in first learning how to clean baby guinea pigs is the powdered bath. The powdered bath is easily attained from the local pet store and even your local veterinarian should have an adequate supply of powdered bath for small animals. This is also incredibly easy to use and it causes virtually no stress on the baby guinea pig as well your pet might even enjoy it!

In learning how to clean baby guinea pigs with the powdered bath all that is required is that you dust an even coating of the bathing powder onto the baby and let it sit for a minute. Grab your favorite pet brush and gently brush the baby and that is the best way to know how to clean baby guinea pigs and the safest way for them as well.

If none of these options are available to you while you are trying to learn how to clean baby guinea pigs, you don’t have to panic it is still very easy to clean your baby guinea pig. If in a pinch, all you have to do is get a cloth and dampen it with lukewarm water and gently scrub the baby until it becomes clean.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

If you want to learn more about Georgia Guinea Pigs please visit our site which is free to the public. You'll find the best tips on everything to do with Guinea Pigs

Grooming Guinea Pigs By Florian Ross

While most small animals don't require much grooming, guinea pigs are different. Their teeth, hair, and nails all require some specific attention on a regular basis. A guinea pig's front teeth continue to grow throughout their entire life. If they are allowed to grow without any control, the guinea pig will find it painful to eat and will, therefore, stop eating altogether.

The best thing you can do is to provide your guinea pig with hard things to chew on: carrots and other hard vegetables, chew sticks or blocks, or even tree branches. Even though you provide these materials, however, you will need to regularly check the guinea pig's teeth to make sure they aren't becoming unmanageable. Check to see if the teeth are turning inward because this is a sign of excessive growth.

If you do notice that your guinea pig's teeth are getting too long, then you need to take him to a vet and get them trimmed down. Never try to trim a guinea pig's teeth yourself! Your vet will have the proper tools and experience to safely trim the teeth to a normal length.

Another problem that sometimes arises with guinea pig's teeth, particularly if they aren't getting all of the vitamins they need in their diet, is that the tips of teeth may break off. This can also make it difficult for the guinea pig to eat. Take the cavy to your vet and feed him a softer diet until the tooth grows back properly.

Guinea pigs' hair also needs to be taken care of regularly. Keep in mind that guinea pigs with longer hair are going to require more grooming than short-haired cavies.

For short-haired guinea pigs, you need to purchase a small brush and then use it on their hair at least once a week. The brushing serves several purposes. For one, it prevents their hair from matting up and tangling. It also removes any chunks of dirt that may become mixed up in the hair. Because their hair is short, you probably will never need to trim or cut it.

Long-haired guinea pigs are a different story. They need to be thoroughly brushed at least once per day every day. If you need to go out of town for even a couple of days, You will need to leave your long-haired guinea pig with someone who can brush it for you since it doesn't take long for the hair to get terribly matted. In fact, even brushing it once per day won't be enough to stop all the tangles from forming.

You will also need to do something with the hair when it gets too long since it grows another inch in length every month. If you plan on showing the guinea pig, You will need to wrap up the extra hair so that it doesn't get caught up around the animal's feet or mixed up in the urine and feces. Special wraps are available, but You will need to contact a breeder or guinea pig club to find out where to purchase them. If you don't plan on showing your guinea pigs, You will need to trim your guinea pig's hair every couple of months. Don't cut the hair too short. You want it just short enough so that it won't interfere with your guinea pig's movement.

Regardless of the type of guinea pig you have, You will also want to do periodic inspections of its coat to check for lice. Lice are small white parasites that look like tiny worms. Guinea pigs often contract lice from hay and from other guinea pigs. If you do see lice on your guinea pig, you don't have to be alarmed. Generally, the parasites will stay on the guinea pigs and will not jump onto your children or into your home. However, the lice do need to be treated promptly. Your vet should provide you with a shampoo that will kill the lice. Shampoo your guinea pigs and thoroughly clean their cages, then repeat seven days later. You must repeat the process because it takes a week for lice eggs to hatch and you want to make sure to kill any of those remaining babies.

Finally, your guinea pig's nails need to be trimmed regularly also. While wild guinea pigs' nails are naturally worn down to an appropriate length, this does not occur in caged guinea pigs. Lengthy nails can be painful to the guinea pig and to the people who handle him, plus they can break off or get snagged which can cause further injury to your cavy.

You should allow your vet or professional guinea pig groomer to show you how to clip their nails the first time because it is more complicated than trimming your fingernails. Like most animals, guinea pigs don't like to be restrained. It makes them feel vulnerable, and they'll resist as much as they can which makes trimming their nails difficult. Your vet will be able to show you ways to restrain the animal so you safely complete the trimming.

More importantly, the guinea pig's nails contain blood vessels much like a dog's. If you trim too short, You will cut into one of those vessels and your guinea pig will bleed profusely. When this happens you must stop the bleeding immediately! It won't take long for your small pet to bleed to death if you do nothing. Many pet stores sell a powder that stops the bleeding quickly. You may want to ask your vet what he recommends.

If you're worried about cutting your pet's toenails too short, you may be better off trimming them just a little bit but more frequently.

Except for brushing the guinea pig's hair, all other parts of the grooming process should be done by an adult, not a child. Clipping nails, trimming hair, and inspecting teeth should never be done by a child. The guinea pig could become nervous and could bite out of fear for their own safety. Or the child could make a mistake that could cause pain or injury to the guinea pig.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

Guinea Pigs Cage Selection - How To Choose The Best Cage For Your Pig By Florian Ross

The decision on where to place your guinea pig should be made before you choose a cage so you'll know exactly how much space you will be working with, particularly if you will be keeping your guinea pig indoors. Ideally, your guinea pig's cage should be at least 2 square feet per guinea pig, but the more area you provide for your pet, the happier he or she will be. The height of the cage is not as important. Guinea pigs don't really climb much because of their size so 18 inch walls should be high enough to keep them safely inside a cage.

Many guinea pig owners prefer to have multi-level cages for their pets. While the addition of ramps and other levels may be fun and interesting for the guinea pig, it isn't necessary.

When most people purchase their guinea pig cages, they usually go through a pet store. This can be a mistake for several reasons:

1. You will pay too much! A decent-size guinea pig cage in any pet store will run you around $75 to $100 minimum, which is way too much to spend for what you are getting.

2. You will have to do additional modifications on the cage to make it livable for your guinea pig. Your cage should never have an exposed wood interior (it soaks up the smell of their urine) or an exposed wire bottom (it can hurt their sensitive feet). Many of the cages you purchase in pet stores have these features.

3. You usually won't be able to find a large enough cage. Remember that for one guinea pig, you need at least 2 square feet of cage space. Each additional guinea pig requires between 2 to 4 extra square feet of space. Also, you need to figure in the room for toys, hiding places, and food dishes. Many cage manufacturers will try to fool you by quoting only the exterior size on the box but, because of how it is measured, that can be a foot or more different from the actual amount of room your guinea pig would have inside the cage.

If you do decide to buy a pet store cage for the sake of convenience, be sure to also figure on giving them lots of time to run around on the floor.

The best option regarding guinea pig cages, particularly if you want to keep several together, is to build your own. This may sound difficult, but it truly isn't, especially if you find some helpful instructions to work with. Cavycages.com, for example, includes detailed instructions on how to create a safe, roomy cage for your guinea pigs relatively easily and inexpensively.

All of the pieces can be purchased in local stores and would cost anywhere from $60 to $90 to create, including the table to sit the cage on. While that may not seem like much of a savings over the pet store variety, you won't have to do any further modifications and you will be giving your guinea pig more than 10 square feet of room to enjoy.

For those guinea pigs who will be staying outside, you will probably want to construct your own hutch as well. Most of the ones currently sold are either not of good quality, have interior exposed wood, or both. Another option is to purchase a metal commercial cage, remove the wire bottom, and place it on a table that is high enough off the ground to prevent other animals from having easy access to the guinea pigs.

If you do choose to build your own, avoid using chicken wire and instead opt for welded wire because chicken wire can cause injuries to the animal's mouth if he or she chews on it. However, you do not need to worry about the guinea pig chewing its way through either type of wire.

One final word of caution on choosing a cage: Many pet stores sell aquariums and fish tanks as ideal homes for guinea pigs and other small pets, but this is a definite no-no. Guinea pigs need a well-ventilated cage because the ammonia fumes from their urine can cause them to become ill. Obviously, an aquarium is not well-ventilated and, therefore, should never be used as a home for your guinea pig.

Regardless of the type of cage you buy or make, you'll want to be sure that it is fairly easy to clean. At least once every two weeks, you need to remove everything from the cage and give it a thorough cleaning so be sure you can do that as conveniently as possible. People, even loving pet owners, tend not to do necessary things when they are too much of an inconvenience.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm

The Seven Foods That Must Always Be Kept Away From A Guinea Pig By Florian Ross

If you know what food you should be feeding your guinea pig, you should also know that there are some things that you shouldn't feed them.

If you accidentally feed your guinea pig something from this list that is not poisonous, just watch him or her carefully for signs of illness. However, you'll want to call or take him to the vet immediately if he or she has ingested something poisonous.

The forbidden items

- Do not feed your guinea pig iceberg lettuce. While most leafy greens do provide an excellent source of Vitamin C for your guinea pig, iceberg lettuce does not. You're better off purchasing kale or cabbage for your pet.

- Do not feed your guinea pig long stalks of celery. Those stringy pieces that can get wound up in your garbage disposal are just as hard for your guinea pig to digest. If your guinea pig likes celery, you need to cut it up into smaller pieces before you give it to them.

- Do not feed your guinea pig any shelled nuts or seeds. Your guinea pig can easily choke on the pieces of the shell. Also, be careful about the guinea pig treat sticks that are sold in pet stores because these often contain shelled seeds.

- Do not feed your guinea pig rhubarb, beans, or potatoes with green spots. These are all poisonous to your guinea pig.

- Do not feed your guinea pig certain types of plants. While some plants, like dandelions and clover, are safe for your guinea pig, many others are poisonous to him or her. Daffodils, hyacinths, poppy, and buttercups are some of those too avoid.

- Do not feed your guinea pig any dairy products.

Although some people may suggest feeding their guinea pigs yogurt in order to clean out their digestive systems, you should avoid feeding any dairy product to your guinea pig because they are lactose intolerant, which means their bodies can not properly process daily products.

Also, excess calcium will cause guinea pigs to develop kidney and/or bladder stones.

Remember:

If you accidentally feed your guinea pig something from the list above that is not poisonous, just watch him or her carefully for signs of illness. However, you'll want to call or take him to the vet immediately if he or she has ingested something poisonous.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

Florian Ross is a small lizard expert and a freelancer who developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their bearded dragon pet and have your bearded dragon lizard live two times longer. His guides on Bearded Dragons are considered the definitive guides on raising Bearded Dragons.


Find out more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 2 times longer, with his popular ebook about Bearded Dragons or get a free sample of Florian's bearded dragons caresheet

Top 10 Guinea Pig Care Mistakes Or How To Extend Your Piggie's Lifespan By Michael D. Weber

Guinea pigs, originating from Peru and Bolivia, are wonderful pets - cute, social, yet inexpensive and relatively easy to take care of. However, most beginner guinea pig owners don't know much about the animals. In fact, guinea pigs, like other small rodents, are rather delicate and an illness contracted for instance by a cold draft can be fatal for them within a very short period of time.

The most common mistakes made by inexperienced guinea pig owners include the following:

10) Wrong cage placement. Both too hot or too cold temperatures are bad for guinea pigs. They can easily get heatstroke at temperatures of above 90F (30C), but can also freeze at temperatures below 70F (10C). Drafts are to be avoided as well, since they can cause pneumonia.

9) Mistakes when handling. The correct way to pick up and hold a guinea pig is by placing one hand below the body, with the thumb around a front leg, and supporting the weight with the second hand below the hindquarters. A guinea pig should never be pulled by the fur or by a leg.

8) Not clipping nails. This should be done regularly, at least once a month, since the nails grow and get in the way of the guinea pig. If a long nail breaks, it may lead to infections and abscesses.

7) Using a wire mesh bottom cage. This is not a good idea with guinea pigs, since their small feet slip through the mesh and get irritated by the metal, causing foot sores and an illness called bumblefoot. A solid floor cage with a soft bedding like pelleted paper is much better.

6) Placing a boar and a sow together without being prepared for the consequences - a bunch of little guinea pigs. If not neutered, male and female guinea pigs put together will in all likelihood mate and cause offspring. Breeding guinea pigs is in general not recommended if you are not fully aware of the consequences.

5) Not making the house guinea-pig-proof. There are numerous danger in a typical household for a guinea pig on the loose. The most obvious ones include anything that moves - be it people, doors, things that can fall down, or anything that can squeeze a guinea pig. Another one is cables - guinea pigs chew everything in sight, and electric cables are not very good food! Green plants are another potential threat to guinea pig health - a lot of them (such as ficus or azalea) cause food poisoning if chewed on.

4) Not cleaning the cage regularly and often enough. Guinea pigs are clean animals and feel miserable in a dirty cage. Bad hygiene is also often the reason for infections and various serious diseases. A guinea pig cage should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a week (better twice), with the whole bedding renewed. Food bowls and the water tube should be cleaned daily.

3) Not providing enough space and exercise. A sight seen very often is a guinea pig hunched in the corner of a small cage, barely moving from that spot all day. Combined with unrestricted dry food access, this is a sure way to make a guinea pig overweight and thus significantly reduce its lifespan. For guinea pigs, the same basic principle applies as for humans - leaner is better. A healthy guinea pig should feel firm to the touch, not soft and wobbly. Methods to ensure that your guinea pig is in good shape and not overweight include enough space (at least 3-4 sq.ft for an adult guinea pig), toys to play with, regular exploration forays outside of the cage, and restricted food access (for instance, feeding twice a day).

2) Incorrect bedding. Wood shavings in particular, although very frequently used, are not a good bedding for guinea pigs. They can cause foot sores, injuries to the cavies' delicate eyes, and wood dust which often accompanies shavings causes respiratory (lung) problems. Some kinds of wood, such as cedar or redwood, also contain oily components that can also cause allergies and illnesses with guinea pigs.

1) Improper food. This is probably the most frequent cause of illnesses and deaths among pet guinea pigs. In particular, feeding a lot of moist vegetables such as lettuce can cause diarrhea, which can be lethal for a guinea pig within one or two days. Insufficient access to water (for instance, failure to notice that a gravity water bottle's ball was stuck and the guinea pig cannot drink enough) leads to dehydration and is also quite dangerous. Providing water in open bowls instead of a bottle can lead to contamination with droppings and bedding material and various infections as a result.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".

By avoiding these mistakes you are on a good way towards having a healthy and happy guinea pig with a long lifespan.

Copyright 2018, All Rights Reserved

Guinea Pig Diet By Graeme Jarry

A Good Diet is the Basis for a Healthy Guinea Pig.

WATER: Should be fresh and cool ,needs to be changed daily, (best provided in a drip bottle to prevent contamination). Avoid using distilled water and avoid water that is high in minerals, especially if high in calcium. Vitamins or medications should not be added in the water.

VITAMIN C: It’s well known Guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C and require 10 to 30 mg daily . Whilst many guinea pigs receive adequate vitamin C from fresh vegetables and pellets, you may wish to ensure your guinea pig gets sufficient vitamin C by giving a quarter of a 100 mg chewable or plain vitamin C tablet. liquid vitamin C drops can also be given to each cavy. Young, ill and pregnant pigs require extra vitamin C. see my book for a complete Vitamin "C" Table

PELLETS: Plain dye free high quality guinea pig pellets (mixes with nuts are considered too rich), formulated with Vitamin C. Allow approx 1/8 cup of pellets a day when also fed adequate hay and fresh vegetables. It’s best to purchase pellets in small quantities and store in a dry cool dark place to preserve the potency of the . Look for a pellet that uses stabilized vitamin C. It’s always best to avoid pellets that use animal byproducts and those whose primary ingredient is corn.

GRASS HAY: Plenty of high quality, grass hay (timothy and orchard grass are popular) should always be available to each and every guinea pig, no matter what age. The Grass hay keeps their digestive system moving. It also helps prevent their teeth from over growing. Alfalfa hay can be given to young guinea pigs, pregnant, nursing or malnourished adults. Excess calcium could contribute to the formation of bladder stones in older guinea pigs.

VEGETABLES: Fresh vegetables in small amounts (about a cup a day) are an important additional source of vitamin C and other nutrients. Parsley, romaine lettuce, a small piece of carrot, tomato, green or red pepper, spinach, and cantaloupe are popular choices. And clean, pesticide-free grass, clover, dandelion greens, corn husks and silk, will be appreciated by your pet. Be sure to Wash vegetables thoroughly. Vegetables must be introduced slowly, to avoid digestive upsets.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".


Graeme Guinea Pig Enthusiast

http://www.GuineaPigSecretsRevealed.com

Guinea Pigs Body Language and Sounds - How to Communicate With Your Guinea Pig? By Florian Ross

One of the guinea pig's traits that really sets it apart from other small pets is its way of communicating with you and with other animals. Cavies have an array of physical and verbal communication methods that make it easier for you, as the owner, to get inside their head, see what their thinking, and provide them with what they need.

Because their methods of verbal communication are the most unique, we'll start by discussing those.

Many first-time guinea pig owners have often heard rumbling or clacking sounds coming from their tiny creature's cage but never really suspected that those noises were coming from their pet, but they are. In fact, a group of rowdy guinea pigs can get real noisy, real fast.

Guinea pigs have a set of around 7 different sounds (some have subtle variations as well) that were originally used to communicate with their herd in the wild. Each sound has a distinct meaning and is often reinforced with appropriate body language.

Let's look at some of those meanings.

1. Low rattling sound - This deep, constant sound signals to the guinea pigs of the opposite sex that he or she is in the mood. Also, if you have two or more female guinea pigs, you may hear this noise when the dominant cavy greets the others.

2. Rumbling sound - This sound is a signal that your guinea pig doesn't like something. If you are petting him, then that means it doesn't feel comfortable with how you are touching him. If he is alone in his cage, it might mean that there's a loud sound he doesn't like.

3. Squeals/Whistles - Normally, this sound is never used with other guinea pigs. The animal has developed it for one purpose: to ask humans for food.

4. Clacking teeth - If you have several guinea pigs in a cage together, you will definitely want to listen for this sound which is a warning and a signal of aggression.

5. Shreiks - Guinea pigs make this sound when they feel afraid, lonely, or in pain. If your pet makes it, then you need to figure out why and resolve the situation so your guinea pig can return to being happy.

6. Grunts/Squeaks/Chirps - you will, hopefully, become all too familiar with these noises since the guinea pig uses them to let you know he's happy and comfortable. It's also the basic sound used between guinea pigs as they communicate with one another.

7. Purrs - These soft sounds may remind you of a cat as it rubs on your leg, and both the cat's and the guinea pig's sound means pretty much the same thing: they like whatever you are doing a lot!

Many pet owners want to know the secret of getting their guinea pigs to purr, but there really is no secret that they can find in a book. Each guinea pig is different, and each likes to be held and petted in different ways. If you want to make your guinea pig happy, the best thing to do is to experiment and to listen to what he tells you. He'll let you know what he likes and what he doesn't like; you just have to pay attention.

Just as their verbal messages can help you interpret their feelings, so can guinea pigs' body language.

One of the most common things you may see your guinea pig do is to jump straight up into the area or to make several successive jumps in a row. This behavior is referred to as “popcorning" since the guinea pig resembles the popcorn kernals popping around while they are being cooked. This tells you that they are in a great mood and that they are very happy.

Guinea pigs also like to stretch their bodies. This also is a sign of being content. However, if they are only stretching their head that means they are very alert and are paying attention to what is going on around them very carefully.

When you hear that teeth clacking or rumbling sound, it's a good bet that you will either see your guinea pigs showing their teeth or standing up on their stiff back legs. Both of these are signs of aggression and could signal an impending fight.

Keeping a watchful eye and ear on your guinea pigs can help you provide them with everything they need to be truly happy and safe.

If you like this article, then you might be interested in getting the "The Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs by Rachel Garlick" guide. It has some amazing facts on how to keep your Guinea Pig fed correctly and what food to avoid, keeping your treasured pet safe, healthy and Happy.

Click here to read our review of "Ultimate Guide To Happy Healthy Guinea Pigs".


Florian Ross is a freelancer and small animals expert. For more tips on raising Guinea Pigs and having them live 3 times longer, see http://www.pets-lovers.com/guinea-pigs/guinea-pigs.htm